quarta-feira, 20 de fevereiro de 2013

individualism x consumerism




Fashion is the perfect opportunity to express our individualism. What you choose to wear and how you wear it says a great deal about who you are as a person and some people make a fine art out of making a statement with their fashion choices.

You may not want your fashion to identify you with a particular group. You may be more interested in making your own unique, individual statement. That is what it means to be stylish and fashionable. Many people confuse those terms to mean that you're dressed in the latest trendy style or that you're a slave to fashion. Quite the contrary can be the case if you assert your own sense of style.




According to Wikipedia, consumerism is the equation of personal happiness with consumption and the purchase of material possessions. The term is often associated with criticisms of consumption that started with Thorstein Veblen, a Norwegian-American sociologist, economist, and author. Veblen is most famous for his book The Theory of the Leisure Class. His subject of examination, the newly emergent middle class arising at the turn of the twentieth century, comes to full fruition by the end of the twentieth century through the process of globalization.

For consumers in dominant Western countries, globalization means an abundance of fashions sold by giant retailers who can update inventory, make transnational trade deals, and coordinate worldwide distribution of goods at the click of a computer. It means that what people are consuming is less the clothing itself than the corporate brand or logo such as Nike, Victoria’s Secret, or Abercrombie & Fitch. Consumers are purchasing the fantasy images of sexual power, athleticism, cool attitude, or carefree joy these brands disseminate in lavish, ubiquitous, hyper-visible marketing on high-tech electronic media. But much less visible is the effect of globalization on the production of fashion.

No longer manufactured by the company whose label it bears, clothing from large retailers is manufactured through a network of contractors and subcontractors. Pioneered by Nike, the largest retailer of athletic shoes and fashions, the outsourcing or subcontracting system was quickly taken up by giant retail chains like Express and The Gap, and big-box stores such as Wal-Mart. These companies do not manufacture their own goods, but rather source and marketing goods produced on contract in low-wage environments. Because they make large profits, they can force manufacturers to contract with them at lower and lower prices. To reduce their costs, manufacturers subcontract much of the sewing, and even the cutting, to sweatshops in countries such as Mexico, China, Thailand, Romania, and Vietnam, where poverty is high and wages can be as low as 23 cents per hour. Manufacturers can also subcontract to sweatshops in the vast underground economies of immigrant communities in cities like Los Angeles, New York, or London. There is a huge contrast, but a tight relation, between production in sweatshops, where young women workers are often subjected to physical and sexual abuse, and consumption in retail chains filled with glamorous images. Jobs come without even the most basic worker safeguards and benefits.

Fashion is not the death of individualism, but instead a beacon of hope that helps people shape up their personalities and help them to stand out in this world as truly themselves.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD545W0rLAo
http://www.dw.de/paying-a-high-price-for-cheap-fashion/a-16489159

terça-feira, 22 de janeiro de 2013

Tuxedo Style


O Tuxedo tem sido uma grande tendência nas coleções de Paris Fashion Week Primavera 2013, com estilistas oferecendo versões tradicionais e não convencionais em todos os shows.  
Com Hedi Slimane fazendo sua estréia nesta temporada na casa de Saint Laurent, outros estilistas tiveram "le smoking" no cérebro. 


A  androginia, continua a inspirar estilistas, e nós certamente não vimos o fim do Tuxedo. Uma tendência clássica, revesitada na pista em preto e por vezes em branco, para uma silhueta "Newton-like" 

Preto-e-branco gráficos têm sido uma grande tendência da temporada, e que melhor roupa para expressar tais contrastes do que o Tuxedo? Em coleções de primavera das mulheres, no entanto, muitos designers foram longe a ponto de expandir os elementos de um terno tradicional dos homens, transformando em algo totalmente mais usável.


 
  
Inspirada pelos clássicos contemporâneos da Vogue Paris, dedicado à La Parisienne, selecionei o nosso favorito Tuxedo dos anos 60 até os dias atuais.














terça-feira, 12 de outubro de 2010

DISCO!

In recent years we've worn the best of the 20s and 30s, seen the rebirth and fading of an 80s come back, and we're just about to do it all again. But this time, its the 1970s that are due for a reinterpretation.

 Redefine power dressing in buttery silks, luxe trousers, honey-colored fur, and sleek neutral accessories.


Sophisticated 70s: women's trend:





Neat bow-blouses, especially ones with billowing or bishop sleeves. Particularly great are fabrics like silk and satin.
By night the '70s sophisticate turns into the ultimate socialite, with look-at-me shimmering fabrics and cuts that either tightly hug or sensually drape over the body.
High sheen fabrics with a '70s disco-inspired edge, like lurex or silk; anything with a metallic thread.
Long, slinky gowns with draping, low necklines or dress slits are the ultimate in '70s night time glamour.

domingo, 10 de outubro de 2010

Kenneth Anger




Vimos David Lynch filmar para a Dior, agora a grife italiana Missoni contratou artista Kenneth Anger (de Scorpio Rising e Fireworks) para capturar a modelagem da família Missoni sua coleção de outono. O resultado é como um passeio alucinógeno através da alta moda.

Kenneth Anger e um cineasta e escritor estadounidense nasceu em Santa Mónica (Califórnia) o 3 de fevereiro de 1927.
Sua obra é de carácter polémico e pertencente ao movimento Queercore. Provavelmente um dos directores de cinema mais inovador e desconhecido do século XX.
Criador de cortometrajes carregados de iconografía pulp (revista), sadomasoquista, fetichista e homossexual. Influiu enormemente em directores como John Waters ou Martin Scorsese.
Alguns de seus curtos rozan mais o género do videoclip por sua montagem e sua duração.
Estava obsedado pelas obras e a vida de Aleister Crowley.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenneth_Anger

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRm3B4T5SkU

a minha nova paixao!

domingo, 3 de outubro de 2010

Avant-Garde


According to the dictionary, the avant-garde current it is an artistic current which fights against the already known and accepted forms and traditions, suggesting a revolutionary formula. In other words, this avant-garde may be regarded as an artistic innovative movement, which came out from a spirit of negation and revolt against certain traditionalism. It has become a synonym of innovation, progress and rebellion.
In fashion, the avant-garde style is defined through its personality. Many designers have been asked to define this style and they all added a certain term to define it: sophisticated, mysterious, intimidating, intriguing, striking.The accessories have to be very modern, unusual, but elegant. 
The models may intimidate because what they wear is beyond a normal image. Avant-garde fashion means a little bit of theatre. Most of the time, the clothes cannot be worn in the street because they belong to a flamboyant style. They are very innovative and can be a bit shocking. Somehow, this style does not refer only to fashion. It means a mixture between fashion and art. The avant-garde fashion teaches women to have a certain attitude.
Avant-garde clothes mean unusual ones, which catch the eye and does not let you fade in the crowd. In fact, when we discuss about avant-garde fashion, we should not talk only about clothes. In the end, the result of the avant-garde has to be a whole form.








terça-feira, 28 de setembro de 2010

SOS colors!!

Ruffles, party dresses, crazy prints, bright colors, super fun shoes, FUN!FUN! FUN!



Betsey Johnson and Marc Jacobs  lines for the New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2010, with their colorful collections "turned up to ten"!

sexta-feira, 13 de agosto de 2010

50's!

Moda nos anos cinquenta trouxe glamour à austeridade Grã-Bretanha.  Mulheres aprovaram o "New Look" de Christian Dior, que dominou a moda nos anos cinquenta. Ele dispensou o olhar austero de utilidade e criou o New Look, em 1947. Sua cintura estreita e saia ampla fez as mulheres parecerem mais femininas. As roupas da Dior, usavam uma grande quantidade de material, considerado quase imoral nos dias de racionamento. A influência da Dior continuou durante a década de 50. Em 1953, introduziu a linha Princesa, em 1955, a"A-line". As saias eram cheias e largas com cores brilhantes, o "look" era fascinante. Estrelas de cinema, era oque as meninas aspiravam na epoca. O look Dior foi questionado em meados dos anos cinquenta, quando Coco Chanel apresentou um desenho simples, com uma saia logo abaixo do joelho, o simples terno da Chanel forneceu uma alternativa que durou até os anos sessenta, e foi muito copiado pelos "ready-to-wear" das casas de moda da epoca. Tornou-se rapidamente a aparência padrão formal para as mulheres em todos os níveis sociais.  
Quando veio Rock'n'roll, as meninas pararam de se vestir como suas mães e adotarao um visual mais jovem. Talvez seja a influência da serie americana " Mad Men"- desenterrado e feito novamente. Mas os anos 50 e 60 estão de volta!  
Dries, Rochas, Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Isabel Marant e Vuitton juntaram a conformidade elegante e a rebelião sexual do período, com surpreendentes modernos "designs" - muito "wearable" - olha so o resultado...